Pattern Review Vogue 1129

Pattern DescriptionUnlined, fitted jacket with pockets, drape, two piece sleeves and topstitch trim, above mid-knee length.

Fabric UsedShell: 100% wool tweed from Gorgeous Fabrics
Lining: Bremsilk cupro

Pattern SizingI made size 12 because it was described as being fitted, and I knew I might want to wear it over sweaters.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes it looks exactly like the photo, but mine is very drapey because the wool I used was very lightweight.

Were the instructions easy to follow?I thought this jacket was very easy to make, although the collar took some time to work through. It isn’t complicated, but the drape is what makes up the back collar and the way the instructions describe to lay it out and sew were confusing at first, so I had to stop and think about it over a cup of tea. I'm kicking myself because I accidentally deleted the pictures I took of it! But once I understood it continued to be smooth sailing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The only thing I don’t like about this pattern is that it isn’t lined.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:The pattern calls for topstitching detail and edgestitching in some areas, but I edgestitched everywhere in addition to the topstitching because I think it gave a very neat finish. The jacket is not lined but I decided to line the sleeves because I think it makes a coat/jacket easier to take on or off.

Here is a good tip for finishing cuffs on a garment like this:

Note: this must be done before setting the sleeves

1. Cut the lining about 1 -1.5" shorter than the cuff edge.

2. Line up edges and sew as instructed.

3. Firmly press.

4. Sew about 1" down from the seamline to secure the lining to the shell seam allowance.

5. Trim if necessary.

6. Turn out and admire your work!

I also had to move the placement of the snaps to better suit my bust, and I also did not add the hook and eye (used to hold the drape in place on the shoulder) because I thought it was a bit fussy, and I liked the idea of being able to adjust the drape to change the look.

Conclusion/RecommendationsI really like this design because it is easy to make yet looks very professional and expensive – on the outside – I do think that it should be fully lined on the inside, and the drape should either be self-faced or lined as well. I would like to make it again and experiment with the lining, but it will take some thought because the corners on the edges of the drape are mitered in order to get that sharp point. Also make sure you have enough room to fully lay out the fabric when cutting – the drape is cut on the bias so it takes up a lot of fabric and space (I cut mine out on the floor).

Pattern Review Butterick 4919

Pattern Description:
Flared dress, fitted at bust, floor length has back zipper and tie ends extending from bodice back.
Pattern Sizing:
After taking my measurements I decided on the 12 as it is a close fitting bodice and had an inner belt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
The final result does not resemble the illustration on the envelope because it is depicted as having a much fuller skirt - I think a petticoat would be needed to achieve that look. However, there is an actual photo of the dress in the catalogue and on the website, and mine looked the same.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, but I made a bodice toile first to make sure I understood how it was constructed and to see if my alterations worked.

Fabric Used: 100% silk shot dupion

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I immediately knew that I wanted to alter the neck line to a deeper plunge because I thought the original made it look very "home made." I extended it to where the sash crosses in front and was very pleased with the result. Instead of using 2 hook and eyes to fasten the bodice back, I used hook and eye tape for a more secure hold. (I also sewed 2 hanger loops made of seam tape into the waist seam because the dress is so heavy).

I also pleated some tulle and sewed it into the shoulder seams to give the gathers some oomph and prevent them from looking flat.

Conclusion/Recommendations:
This is a really nice dress and I got lots of compliments on it but it requires a LOT of fabric and can get very expensive depending on what you use. If I had the need I would probably make it again with some adjustments..I would definetly use the altered neckline, and I would try self facing the sashes because I think it would give a more professional appearance. If that didn't work I would double fold the edges, miter the corners, and maybe edge and/or top stitch versus overlocking and pressing over the edges. I would also like to see how it looks with a petticoat underneath to make it look more like the picture.